LuxeBeauty Antioxidant Concentrated Serum
A serum with 6 ingredients.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil and Astaxanthin to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
Worth noting
Contains Eugenol, an EU-listed fragrance allergen.
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What's inside
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Explained
This ingredient is also known as rosehip seed oil. It helps smooth skin, soften rough patches, and support a healthy moisture barrier as an emollient.
Rosehip seed oil is one of the more polyunsaturated plant oils in cosmetics; it's loaded with fatty acids like linoleic acid (~44%), alpha-linoleic acid (~34%), and oleic acid (~14).
Another interesting compound that makes it stand out from other oils is the trace amount of all-trans retinoic acid (the same molecule as prescription tretinoin), along with some carotenoids and tocopherols.
The linoleic acid is a precursor to ceramide 1, one of the essential lipids in the stratum corneum. Topical linoleic acid application has been shown to improve barrier function and reduce comedone size in clinical studies.
One study found that linoleic acid and alpha-linoleic acid lighten UV-induced hyperpigmentation. A 2015 study found that participants who used rosehip twice daily for eight weeks saw improvements in crow's feet, skin moisture, and skin elasticity compared to the placebo.
If you're hoping to get tretinoin benefits from this ingredient, it's worth noting the trans-retinoid acid is trace-level and minimal compared to the amount of retinol or tretinoin found in formulas.
A 2024 review highlighted the fatty acid composition in rosehip-based dermatological products for:
Typical usage rates range from 1-100% with 5-10% being the most common in moisturizers.
Since the oil is high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, it's prone to oxidation. Look for formulations stabilized with ingredients like vitamin E and be sure to store away from light/heat.
Fungal acne: This oil is not considered fungal acne safe because dominant fatty acids fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Rosa Rubiginosa Seed OilRubus Idaeus Seed Oil is created from the seeds of the raspberry fruit. Raspberries are native to northern Europe and Asia.
Raspberry seed oil is an emollient with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It is rich in fatty acids, tocopherols, flavonoids, Vitamin C, and Vitamin E.
As an emollient, raspberry seed oil helps hydrate your skin. Emollients prevent moisture from evaporating by creating a film on top.
Learn more about Rubus Idaeus Seed OilAstaxanthin is a carotene pigment and red pigment. It is a promising antioxidant with a ton of skin benefits.
This antioxidant has great anti-aging benefits by blocking the following:
Astaxanthin is also great at soothing skin due to its ability to block molecules that signal inflammation. It is currently being studied for preventing chronic inflammatory diseases.
Plus, a study from 2012 found Astaxanthin in liposomes protected mouse skin from UV-damage.
Fun fact: Astaxanthin is responsible for giving salmon a pink color.
Learn more about AstaxanthinEugenol is the phenylpropanoid that gives cloves their smell, and it makes up roughly 78% of clove essential oil. It also shows up in cinnamon leaf, bay, nutmeg, and basil, or made synthetically.
Officially, its CosIng functions are perfuming and tonic. So its job in a formula is almost always scent rather than skin benefit.
There's some lab work behind its reputation; in one study, it acted as an antioxidant and calmed inflammation in human immune cells. But it also killed skin cells (keratinocytes) in a dish.
It stopped damaging those cells and still reduced swelling in mice when the researchers wrapped it in tiny capsules to slow its release.
One study that is quoted out of context frequently: clove oil killed human skin and blood vessel cells at levels as low as 0.03%, and about 73% of that came down to eugenol. Keep in mind those were bare cells sitting in a dish with no skin barrier in the way (which is a lot harsher than what happens on your actual face).
On concentrations, it is restricted to 0.64% in leave-on products + body products, 0.21% in baby + lip products, 2.5% in fine fragrance and 4.9% in rinse-off. Real formulas usually land far below those caps.
Allergy is the actual story with this ingredient. It is one of the eight markers dermatologists use for allergy testing, and the EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
It is also a prohapten, meaning it needs enzymatic activation in skin to become allergenic, so sensitivity varies between people.
Rates are modest but not trivial: in a classic EECDRG multicentre study, 13 of about 1,300 patch-tested patients reacted to eugenol, and in eugenol-allergic subjects the lowest positive patch test concentration was 0.031%, with 56% reacting in a 21-day repeated open application test at 0.5% to 2.7%.
Normal use levels are generally fine if you are not already sensitized.
Learn more about EugenolAgarwood essential oil or oud essential oil is used to add a scent to products. It is described to have a smoky, incense, sweet tobacco smell.
Oryzanol is a naturally occurring mixture of ferulic acid esters and plant sterols from rice bran oil. It has skin conditioning properties and is able to soothe and moisturize the skin.
One interesting thing about this ingredient is that it is able boost the photoprotective profile of sunscreen due to its ability to absorb UV radiation in the UVA range.
In-vitro studies have found oryzanol can inhibit melanin production through a dual mechanism, potentially helping in the appearance of uneven skin tone and dark spots over time.
Learn more about OryzanolReviews
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Where it's from
LuxeBeauty is a American brand
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We're dedicated to providing you with the most up-to-date and science-backed ingredient info out there.
The data we've presented on this page has been verified by a member of the SkinSort Team.
Read more about us· Published March 8, 2023 • Added by LindsayRemington_552
