BioNike Triderm Lenil+ Topical Treatment

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Your skin makes its own natural anti-inflammatory hormone called cortisol and it also has an enzyme that switches cortisol off. Glycyrrhetinic Acid slows down that enzyme so your skin's natural calming power sticks around a little longer.

The research is pretty encouraging, especially for calming redness:

This is a good ingredient to look out for if your skin gets red, itchy, or irritated easily. It's also nice for anyone recovering from a harsh treatment or whose skin barrier is feeling a bit stressed.

It's typically found up to 2% because a little goes a long way.

Safety experts at the Cosmetic Ingredient Review found it safe as used in cosmetics. Even at 6%, three times the typical amount, it didn't cause irritation or allergic reactions in clinical testing.

Allergies to it are very rare with only a handful of reported cases over the years. But as with any new product, it's a good idea to patch test if you have reactive skin.

Fun fact: Glycyrrhetinic Acid is also used as a flavoring agent. Its sweet licorice roots mean it's sometimes used to help mask bitter tastes in medicine.

Due to the cetearyl alcohol and olea europea oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!