SKNV Medorfa Emulsion Hydroquinone 6%

Just know this ingredient fades spots near the surface of skin and not the deeper ones. It's usually used at 2-4% / twice a day for 3 months, and ALWAYS with sunscreen.

This ingredient is usually well tolerated with short-term use under medical guidance. But possible reactions include irritation, contact dermatitis, and lightening of the skin around the spot you're treating.

You might hear hydroquinone called "cancer-causing". That concern comes from studies where rats were fed high oral doses; no skin cancer cases have been linked to it after more than 50 years of people putting it on their skin.

Long-term, high-strength, and unsupervised use can lead to a condition called ochronosis. This is where the skin turns blue-grey color and sometimes causes nails to turn dark as well.

The rules around it vary by country.

The EU bans it in regular cosmetics and it is prescription only in the US, EU, Japan, Canada, and Australia. Anything you see on the shelf without a prescription is technically not allowed.

Check out the European alternative to hydroquinone here.

SkinSort would like to remind friends from around the world that all skin tones are beautiful!

By latching onto the copper that the enzyme tyrosinase needs to function, Kojic Acid prevents less pigment from being made. It's so well-established that researchers regularly use it as the go-to benchmark when testing new brightening ingredients.

Some other perks include documented antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. The The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel concluded Kojic Acid is safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 1% and the EU's SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) considers it safe as a skin lightening agent at concentrations up to 0.7%.

One thing to know about Kojic Acid is that stability is its weak spot; it is sensitive to light, heat, and air exposure and will oxidize/turn brown in formulations. Its derivative, Kojic Dipalmitate, was developed as a stable alternative.

Some individuals have reported contact sensitization so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or sensitive skin.

Fun fact: It was first discovered in 1907 and naturally occurs in the production of sake, soy sauce, and miso.

You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.

You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here: