Chagrin Valley Soap & Salve Whipped Squalane Face & Eye Mousse

Chagrin Valley Soap & Salve Whipped Squalane Face & Eye Mousse

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This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

Worth noting

Contains Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, an EU-listed fragrance allergen.

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What's inside

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Olive Oil is just regular olive oil that's been treated with hydrogen. Hydrogenation turns the oil into a soft, waxy solid that's more resistant to oxidative and thermal damage.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is a skin conditioning agent that helps lock in moisture and gives balms, lip products, and creams a rich texture.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has concluded it to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Industry data shows it's used in amounts of 0.0005-12%, with leave-on products at 0.1 to 12% and rinse-off products at 0.0005 to 0.1%.

Allergies are rare; the proteins behind food allergies do not partition into the refined oil. Even regular olive oil allergy is uncommon, but it's best to patch test if you are unsure.

For acne, there's no human data showing it can clog pores and research has found that finished products containing ingredients labeled comedogenic aren't necessarily comedogenic. Some people still find it breaks them out so if that's you, definitely trust your skin.

Lab studies show the Malassezia species grew most efficiently on palmitic acid, which is a component of this oil. It may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Olive Oil
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

This oil comes from the shea tree.

It has emollient properties - meaning when applied, it creates a thin film to trap moisture within. This helps keep your skin smooth and hydrated.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.

Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.

Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.

Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).

Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.

Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Learn more about Squalane
Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.

Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.

When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.

A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.

Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.

More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.

Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.

Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

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Where it's from

Chagrin Valley Soap & Salve is a American brand

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· Updated February 15, 2026 Added by sophiatorressabik