Chidoriya Brightening Eye Serum

Chidoriya Brightening Eye Serum

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This eye moisturizer is formulated around Camellia Japonica Seed Oil and Rosa Canina Fruit Oil to hydrate skin.

Worth noting

Contains Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, an EU-listed fragrance allergen.

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What's inside

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as Tsubaki oil, or the fixed oil from the seeds of the Japanese camellia.

It's basically a fatty acid delivery system (~75-85% oleic acid) plus some minor extras like squalene, tocopherols, and phytosterols.

That profile makes it a classic emollient; it works by hanging out with the skin's surface lipids, softens, and slows down water loss.

The most cited study on it was done on skin cells in a dish where this oil got them to make more of the building blocks for collagen while also slowing down the enzyme that breaks collagen down. Researchers tested this on human skin too; it didn't cause irritation and helped skin hold onto moisture better.

Another study done on cells and mice found this oil quieted down some of the body's inflammation signals.

These studies are still small, early, and not done on humans, so it's best to think of this ingredient as a great supporting ingredient for the rest of your routine and not the main active.

Concentrations can range from 1-5% in serums to 100% as a single face oil (how it's most traditionally used).

Because this ingredient is a triglyceride of long-chain fatty acids, this ingredient may not be Malassezia safe.

Allergies to this protein are quite rare as the refined seed oil contains very little residual protein. Human irritation testing also came back clean. But it is a plant and as with any botanical ingredient, contact allergy is possible.

Learn more about Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that has earned its skincare reputation through chemistry.

It's dominated by fatty acids like linoleic acid (~35-55%), alpha-linolenic acid (~17-27%), and oleic acid (~14-22%). This is the exact profile that supports skin barrier, locks in hydration, and calms inflammation.

A 2024 review found evidence for the Rosa canina species supports its use for scarring, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and atopic dermatitis; this was mostly credited to its vitamin C content and fatty acid composition as the primary active mechanisms.

You might see this ingredient marketed as a "natural retinol". Some rosehip seed oils contains traces of all-trans-retinoic acid but these trace amounts are far below biologically active levels.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has deemed this ingredient safe and it's well-tolerated.

Fungal acne: The fatty acids of this oil fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Masking, Tonic

Boswellia Carterii Oil is also known as Frankincense oil. It has a warm, spicy, smokey, and woody aroma.

Masking, Perfuming

This ingredient is also known as Ylang Ylang essential oil.

There are several grades of this oil according to when the flowers are obtained so the exact makeup varies by origin, grade, and extraction.

In cosmetics, its job is mostly sensory: it has a sweet, floral scent often used in perfume.

Chemically, it's complex mix of fragrant molecules: geraniol, limonene, linalool and benzyl benzoate.

Several of these components are on the EU's list of recognized fragrance allergens; this means they have to be labeled when present above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

This ingredient is a known contact sensitizer for a small amount of people so it's definitely worth patch-testing if your skin is reactive.

Lab studies have found the oils does have real antioxidant and antibacterial activity, but keep in mind these are in-vitro findings rather than proven skincare benefits.

Learn more about Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil is also known as carrot seed oil. In skincare, it behaves as an emollient as a fixed oil and as a fragrance ingredient as an essential oil.

It's a fatty emollient oil whose main fatty acids are petroselinic (about 59%), linoleic (about 12%), palmitic (about 10%) and stearic (about 2%).

All studies done on this ingredient are in vitro or animal; carrot seed essential oil has been shown to speed up wound closure in rats. Cell culture has also shown it to have anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity against gram-positive bacteria.

There is a myth going around that this ingredient has an SPF of 38-40. It traces back to a 2009 paper that tested multi-ingredient herbal sunscreen and not just this oil. When tested properly, carrot seed oil measured SPF 0.1 in vitro and 2.5 in vivo. Please do not treat this ingredient as sun protection!

Allergies are documented but uncommon and most of the documented cases come from canning factory workers. It's safe to patch test if you have botanical sensitivities or allergies.

The essential oil version of this ingredient is a terpene-rich fragrance material so those with fragrance sensitivities should also patch test.

There is a published case of phytophotodermatitis after use of a carrot extract-containing sunscreen that presented as a hyperpigmented patch. This is because Apiaceae plants can carry furanocoumarins.

Carrot is in the same plant family as celery and parsley, which contain furanocoumarins. These are compounds that can make skin more reactive to sunlight.

Carrots themselves have very little of them (usually only trace amounts) and the steam-distilled version shouldn't carry them at all since they're too heavy to come through distillation.

If you're using a leave-on product with it during the day, wearing sunscreen covers it.

This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.

Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.

Some people still find it breaks them out due to the fatty acid profile. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.

The Malassezia yeast feeds on long-chain fatty acids (C11-24). The fatty acids in this ingredient fall right into that range, making it not fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil

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Where it's from

Chidoriya is a Japanese brand

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· Published March 27, 2023