Apolosophy Sensitive Oil Serum Oparf

Apolosophy Sensitive Oil Serum Oparf

This calming serum is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Oil to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

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What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate yet.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables are the "leftover" part of olive oil after the fatty acids get turned into soap.

Most of what's left behind is a concentrated blend of squalene, phytosterols, and vitamin E.

Squalene is pretty cool because it's already naturally found in our skin and makes up about 13% of sebum. This makes it a great moisturizing and skin-barrier-supporting ingredient.

This ingredient is typically used at low concentrations (~1-3%) and occasionally up to 25% when acting as the main ingredient in a formula.

Fungal acne note: Though this ingredient is largely free of fatty acid esters that feed Malassezia, it may still have some residual fatty acids depending on the purity. This is why this ingredient is marked as not fungal acne safe.

People with existing olive oil allergies should be cautious as well.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Canola Oil is a plant-oil and low-erucic-acid variety of rapeseed. Like other seed oils, it functions as an emollient that softens skin and slows water loss.

Its fatty acid profile is mostly linoleic acid (55-65%) with some oleic, palmitic, and stearic acids. There are also some small amounts of vitamin E and plant sterols.

The sterol content is pretty interesting:

In a controlled human study, a single application of canola oil and especially its sterol-enriched fraction reduced visible irritation, redness, and water loss caused by SLS. Plain canola oil and most other tested oils did little on healthy, un-irritated skin.

It's pretty much just a calm, moisturizing oil that helps with soothing if your skin is already irritated.

Since canola oil is made up of C18 fatty acids, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on chain lengths C11-24.

Fun fact: Canadian growers bred the low-erucic variety in the 1970's, and the name stands for "Canadian oil, Low Acid").

Learn more about Canola Oil
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as oat kernel oil. It's an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is great for barrier support, hydrating skin, and calming irritation.

The fatty acid profile is dominated by linoleic acid (~22.8-43.1%), oleic acid (~31.4-51.3%), and palmitic acid (~13.9-18.8%).

Plus, it contains ceramides, phytosterols, phospholipids, vitamin E, and avenanthramides (oat's signature anti-inflammatory polyphenols).

One study found an oat lipid extract applied to human skin cells switched on receptors that tell skin cells to mature properly and make more barrier lipids (including a 70% boost in ceramides).

Basically, oat kernel oil doesn't just sit on top of skin, it nudges your skin to build more its of its own barrier.

Typical usage levels range from 1-10%.

Note: This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the fatty acids present.

Learn more about Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Learn more about Tocopherol

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Where it's from

Apolosophy is a Swedish brand

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· Published October 2, 2023 Added by starstellastar_407