Name: Sensitive Pit Cream
Brand: Fat and the Moon

What's inside

Ingredients Explained

Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as coconut oil. It is a plant-derived ingredient with skin conditioning properties.

The fatty acid profile of coconut oil is mostly lauric acid (~54%), followed by capric, caprylic, palmitic, and myristic acids. This profile allows it to penetrate easily into skin, moisturize, and improve dry skin.

A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.

Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.

It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.

Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.

Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.

Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".

Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).

The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.

Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).

Learn more about Cocos Nucifera Oil

Maranta Arundinacea Root Powder

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Maranta Arundinacea Root Powder yet.

Magnesium Hydroxide

Absorbent, Buffering

We don't have a description for Magnesium Hydroxide yet.

Beeswax

Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Beeswax is natural wax produced by honey bees to build their honeycomb.

Because it forms a protective layer on your skin, it can help lock in moisture and reduce water loss. It is also widely used as a thickener and emulsifier in lip balms and lotions. Research suggests beeswax containing moisturizers can support skin barrier integrity.

In comedogenic testing, Beeswax scored a 0-2, which is on the low end. Whether or not a product clogs your pores really comes down to the formula as a whole (not any single ingredient on its own).

Cera Alba is the white, bleached form of this ingredient.

Just so you know, beeswax is not vegan since it is animal-derived. It cannot be removed with water, but can be taken off with an oil cleanser.

People with a known Propolis allergy also report to have reactions from beeswax.

Beeswax's wax esters are derived primarily from palmitic and oleic acid (C16 and C18:1). Both of these fall within the C11-C24 feeding window.

The Malassezia yeast can potentially cleave these esters and release usable fatty acids, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. However, not everyone will react to this ingredient.

Learn more about Beeswax

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Emulsifying

This ingredient is a modified version of natural beeswax where the free fatty acids have been swapped for polyglycerol esters to make it more hydrophilic (water-loving).

It mainly works as an emulsifier to help oil and water stay mixed in a formula. You'll also see it in stick formulas because it also thickens and stabilizes oils to prevent the oils from bleeding.

Emulsifiers like this tend to be well tolerated unless you have a known bee-product allergy. Due to this ingredient being an ester of beeswax fatty acids, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Ocimum Basilicum Oil

Masking, Tonic

This ingredient is also known as basil oil or basil essential oil. It is primarily used to add a fragrance or mask the odor of other ingredients.

The main bioactive compounds in it are linalool and eugenol. These are EU-regulated fragrance allergens; this just means a small percentage of people with existing fragrance sensitivities should patch test.

In-vitro studies have demonstrated activity against acne-causing bacteria.

Learn more about Ocimum Basilicum Oil

Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Oil

Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

Vetiver oil is known for its earthy fragrance. It is most often used for adding a scent or fragrance to a product.

Recent studies have found potential antioxidant activity of vetiver root oil.

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