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Niod Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid 30% Network (Elan)

Name: Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid 30% Network (Elan)
Brand: Niod

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Superoxide Dismutase to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

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What's inside

Ingredients List

Propanediol

Solvent

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Skin Conditioning

Superoxide Dismutase

Antioxidant

Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment

Skin Conditioning

Propanediol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Superoxide Dismutase, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment

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Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Propanediol

Solvent

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Learn more about Propanediol

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Skin Conditioning

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.

Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:

In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.

The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.

A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.

Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).

Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.

Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Superoxide Dismutase

Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Superoxide Dismutase is found in all living cells. This ingredient is AKA as 'SOD'.

SOD is a strong antioxidant. It protects living cells against oxidative damage by breaking down radical molecules into regular oxygen and hydrogen peroxide.

Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules that may damage your skin's DNA. This may help with the signs of aging. Due to its antioxidant property, it is used to help treat chronic inflammation.

In cosmetics, SOD is usually obtained from marine phytoplankton, bovine liver, horseradish, cantaloupe, and certain bacteria.

The three major families of SOD include: Copper/Zinc, Iron/Manganese, and Nickel.

When eating SOD-rich foods, our bodies break it down into amino acids before absorption. Foods that contain SOD include: melons, citrus, spinach, broccoli, kale, almonds, sunflower seeds, and blue-green algae.

Learn more about Superoxide Dismutase

Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment

Skin Conditioning

Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment isn't fungal acne safe.