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AHAs Explained

Updated: November 07, 2023

Have you noticed everyone using AHAs in their skincare routines? AHAs have been touted as some of the best anti-aging and skin brightening ingredients. They have quickly risen in popularity and deserve every bit of their fame.

This article will cover everything you need to know about using AHAs:

  • What are acids in skincare?
  • What are AHAs?
  • How do AHAs work?
  • What are AHAs best used for?
  • AHAs vs BHAs
  • Types of AHAs

What are acids?

While the word "acids" may sound a bit frightening, they're friendly in the skincare world! In skincare, acids work with your skin to clean out old gunk. They also have many skin benefits such as anti-aging.

First things first: AHA stands for Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, and BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acids, and PHA stands for polyhydroxy acids.

Similarities between the 3 include: 1. Remove dead skin cells 2. Reduce inflammation 3. Help even out skin tone 4. Help unclog Pores

At a higher level, all three of these are chemical exfoliants. Their main purpose is to gently exfoliate and dissolve dead skin cells. All three have overlapping similarities. However, they are generally used to treat different skin conditions.

Having trouble deciding which acids are best for your skin? Keep reading to learn more about AHAs and which one is the best for you.

What is an AHA?

AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid) are acids naturally found in foods. They are usually derived from fruits, such as apples, pineapple, sugarcane, lemon, and grapes.

Our bodies also naturally product AHAs. For instance, our bodies create lactic acid when converting carbohydrates to energy.

How do AHAs work?

AHAs work primarily on the top layer of old skin cells. Once applied, they start removing the top layer of old skin cells. They break down the structural "glue" holding the old skin cells in place. Getting rid of the old skin cells allows skin to regenerate newer skin cells in its place.

A build up of dead skin cells can lead to tired and dull looking skin. Allowing new skin cells to form creates a brighter, healthier, and better textured skin.

New skin cells are better at retaining water, giving your skin a more youthful, hydrated look.

Best use for AHA?

AHAs are the gold standard for brightening skin tone, removing dark spots, and helping skin look more healthy.

AHAs are powerhouses for:

  • normal to dry skin
  • reducing lines and wrinkles
  • making the skin feel firmer
  • increasing skin hydration
  • removing dull skin
  • evening out skin tone and removing dark spots
  • helping to improve bumpy and textured skin
  • reducing the look of enlarged pores

Things to Note

Some AHAs may have a slight stinging effect when first used. Always wear SPF when using AHAs, as they make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Please note, AHAs are not recommended for dry or sensitive skin.

No matter your skin type, it is best to patch-test any acid-based skincare product. A professional will be able to give you the best advice about incorporating AHAs into your skincare

AHAs are water-soluble. This means they are dissolved by water. Lab Muffin notes the pH level of AHAs affect how potent the product is. It is recommended for AHA products to be lower pH to maximize their benefits.

Combining AHAs with other active ingredients may cause irritation. Some active ingredients include BHAs and retinoids.

How is it different than a BHA?

AHAs differ from BHAs in that it exclusively works on the top layer of skin. AHAs are better at rejuvenating new skin cells to help with anti-aging.

BHAs work deeper in the skin’s layers. BHA is recommended for those with oily skin, clogged pores, and are prone to acne.

Types of AHAs

Here is a quick breakdown of common AHAs and what they're best suited for.

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic Acid is the most famous type of AHA. It is derived from sugarcane but can also by created synthetically. Due to it having the smallest molecule size out of all AHAs, it is able to go deeper than the other types.

Glycolic Acid is a natural humectant, meaning it helps bring moisture to your skin. This type of AHA works best to help create firmer skin.

Lactic Acid

Lactic Acid is created from dairy and fermented vegetables. It can also by synthetically created. Lactic acid is slightly bigger than glycolic acid, so it works a bit slower. In lower concentrations, lactic acid is better for boosting skin hydration. Higher concentrations provide exfoliating benefits.

Lactic acid is best for reducing dark spots and is milder than glycolic acid.

Malic Acid

Malic Acid can come from apples or created synthetically. Malic acid is technically both an AHA and BHA, but has stronger AHA properties.

Citric Acid

Citric Acid is created from citrus fruits or be synthetically produced. It has the lowest pH level of AHAs and may irritate skin because of this. Citric acid can be used to adjust the pH of a product.

Citric acid has antioxidants and provide the AHA exfoliation. However, sensitive and dry skin types should look into other types of AHA such as mandelic acid.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic Acid is created from almonds or synthetically produced. It is the biggest AHA. This means the molecules of mandelic acid are much larger than the other AHAs.

Due to the large molecule size, mandelic acid may be great for sensitive skin as it penetrates the skin slowly.

Find a product with AHA

Finding a product is easy on SkinSort. Click here to see products containing AHA. 😊

Further Learning

What is a BHA?

While AHAs work on the surface layer of skin, retinoids work in deeper levels. Incorporating these ingredients can give your skin the best anti-aging benefits. Learn all about retinoids in our guide here.

Want to become a pro at reading ingredients lists? We wrote a comprehensive guide to reading and understanding an ingredients list.