Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Explained

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

• promoting collagen
• scar healing
• reducing the appearance of fine-lines
• boosting hydration

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

• Keeping the growth factors active is a challenge; this is because they are stored at extremely cold (-20 C) in lab settings to maintain stability.
• The clinical tests from companies do not separate the growth factor from moisturizer vehicle.
• According to her studies, about 5 - 10% of growth factors inside a bottle remain active at room temperature.

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause changes in your DNA to cause cancer.